大连市

Why this place

Dalian was leased by Russia and then ruled by Japan, and both left architecture — a circular plaza system, a Russian-built church, Japanese villas and a tram network still running. It is also the most pleasant seaside city in the northeast, with a long coastline of beaches and cliffs.

What to see

• Zhongshan Square and the Russian and Japanese buildings around it
• Binhai Road — a coastal drive of cliffs and coves, best walked in sections
• Xinghai Square and the seaside promenade, with the old tram line still in service
• Lüshun (Port Arthur), at the tip of the peninsula, with fortifications from the Russo-Japanese War

What to eat

• Dalian seafood — abalone, sea cucumber, scallops and urchin, the city's real luxury
• Grilled squid and seafood skewers at the night markets

Best time

June–September for the sea; September–October is warm and clear with fewer people

Practical tips

• Dalian has a working tram — take it at least once, it is a genuine piece of city history