京剧

Why this place

Peking Opera is the most formal of the Chinese opera traditions: roles are divided into fixed types, faces are painted in colours that declare a character's nature, and movement is stylised — a whip means a horse, a walk in a circle means a long journey. It is loud, highly codified, and worth understanding before you go.

What to see

• The Mei Lanfang Grand Theatre and the Liyuan Theatre in Beijing, which have English subtitle screens
• The National Centre for the Performing Arts, for the full-scale productions
• The Hulu (gourd) teahouse and the smaller Beijing theatres, for a more informal hour
• Other regional operas, which are often more accessible: Huangmei opera in Anhui, Kunqu in Suzhou, Cantonese opera in Guangdong

What to eat

• Before the show: Beijing dumplings or a noodle shop near the theatre
• Tea and snacks are served at the older teahouse theatres

How to plan

One evening. Choose a theatre with subtitle screens for your first time.

Best time

October–April (the main performance season)

Practical tips

• Read a short plot summary first — the conventions are easier to enjoy once you know that a painted red face means a loyal general and a white one means a schemer