泸沽湖

Why this place

Lugu Lake is a deep, clear lake at 2,700 metres on the Yunnan–Sichuan border, and it is the home of the Mosuo people, whose traditional family system — often described as 'walking marriage' — keeps property and children with the mother's household. It is the combination of the lake and the culture that makes it unique.

What to see

• The lake itself, with the Lige peninsula and the 'pig-trough boats' that cross it
• The Mosuo villages on the Yunnan shore, with their wooden houses
• The Zhamei temple and Walabie island, and the sunrise over the water
• The Mosuo museum and the women's households, for the culture itself

What to eat

• Mosuo cooking: cured pork with 'pig fat', lake fish and the local 'su li ma' wine
• Yunnan mountain vegetables and the region's mushrooms

How to plan

Two nights at one of the lakeside villages.

Best time

March–November; the lake is clearest in spring and autumn

Practical tips

• The Mosuo culture is a living family system, not a show — read about it before visiting and be respectful when asking