丽江古城

Why this place

Lijiang's old town is a Naxi settlement of the thirteenth century, built around a network of canals that run beside almost every street — a system that still supplies the town. The Naxi have their own Dongba script, the only pictographic writing system still in use anywhere, and their own music tradition.

What to see

• The canals, bridges and squares of the old town, best at 7am before the crowds
• The Mu family mansion, the residence of the local Naxi rulers
• The Dongba culture research centre and the Naxi ancient music performances
• Black Dragon Pool, for the classic view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain reflected
• Baisha village, with its Ming-dynasty murals, and Shuhe, the quieter old town

What to eat

• Naxi baba — a layered flatbread; Lijiang's hotpot and mushroom dishes
• Yunnan coffee and the local 'sanwen' fish from the canals

How to plan

Three days: the old town and Baisha, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Best time

March–May and September–November; winter is clear with the best mountain views

Practical tips

• The old town is heavily commercialised — the quieter Shuhe old town is a better base for some visitors