壶口瀑布

Why this place

Hukou is where the Yellow River, already 300 metres wide, is squeezed into a 30-metre channel and drops into a gorge — the largest waterfall on the river and the reason for its name, which means 'flask mouth'. The water is thick with yellow silt, and the sound and spray are enormous.

What to see

• The main cataract, seen from the Shanxi or the Shaanxi bank — both sides have viewing areas
• The gorge downstream, where the river runs between rock walls
• The loess plateau landscape around it, and the local cave dwellings

What to eat

• Loess plateau cooking: millet, buckwheat and Yellow River fish
• Shanxi or Shaanxi noodles depending on which bank you are on

How to plan

Half a day from either Linfen (Shanxi) or Yan'an (Shaanxi).

Best time

April–May and September–October; the falls are biggest after the summer rains and partly frozen in midwinter

Practical tips

• The two banks are in different provinces and not connected — decide which side before you travel