华山

Why this place

Mount Hua is granite, not limestone, which is why it is a cluster of sheer blades rather than a rounded ridge — and why the paths up it are cut as grooves in the rock. It is famous for the Changkong plank walk, a boardwalk bolted to a vertical cliff, and for the fact that people genuinely climb it before dawn.

What to see

• The plank walk on the south peak — a few boards between you and a long fall, with a safety harness
• The east peak for sunrise, if you stay on the mountain overnight
• The five peaks in a day, connected by ridges and stairs
• The cable cars, which take most of the pain out and most of the drama in
• Xiyue Temple at the foot, and the Huashan Taoist heritage

What to eat

• Shaanxi noodles at the foot of the mountain, and the local 'yangrou paomo'
• Mountain tea houses sell instant noodles at a premium — bring your own food

How to plan

One long day, or two if you want the sunrise from the summit.

Best time

April–June and September–October

Practical tips

• Go midweek — on holidays the plank walk and the cable cars queue for hours; the staircase is genuinely steep and unlit in places