洱海

Why this place

Erhai is a long, narrow lake with the Cangshan range rising directly behind it, and the Bai villages along its shore — whitewashed houses, painted eaves, and fishing boats. It is the landscape of the Dali kingdom, and the ring road around it passes through some of the nicest village country in Yunnan.

What to see

• The ring road around the lake, best by bicycle or scooter
• The Bai villages of Xizhou and Shuanglang, with their courtyard houses
• The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, and the old town of Dali
• The Cangshan chairlift and the ridge walk above the lake
• The morning market at Shaping, and the fishing villages on the west shore

What to eat

• Erhai fish and shrimp, cooked sour and spicy in the Bai style
• Xizhou baba — a layered flatbread; and the local fried milk fan (rushan)

How to plan

Two or three days based at Dali old town or a lakeside village.

Best time

March–May and September–November

Practical tips

• The west shore villages are quieter than the east; the lake is at 2,000m so the sun is strong