长江三峡

Why this place

The Three Gorges are where the Yangtze cuts through the mountains between Chongqing and Yichang — the classic Chinese river passage, painted and written about for two thousand years. The dam has raised the water and drowned the lowest towns, but the cliffs are still 1,000 metres high, and a cruise through them is still the best way to understand the scale of the river.

What to see

• Qutang Gorge, the shortest and the most dramatic, with the ancient cliff paths above it
• Wu Gorge and the 'Twelve Peaks', and the Shennong Stream tributary
• Xiling Gorge and the Three Gorges Dam, at the downstream end
• The relocated temples and towns, moved uphill when the reservoir filled

What to eat

• River fish and the Sichuan-Hubei cooking of the boats and ports
• The cruise boats serve regional food — the shore excursions are where the good eating is

How to plan

Three to four nights on a cruise from Chongqing to Yichang (or the reverse).

Best time

April–June and September–November

Practical tips

• The downstream route is usually cheaper and slightly faster; the 'first-class' cabins are worth it on the longer stretches