西宁市

Why this place

Xining sits at 2,260 metres at the edge of the Tibetan plateau, and it is where the Chinese and Tibetan worlds historically met — a Muslim quarter, Tibetan monasteries and Chinese city in one place. Qinghai Lake, the largest inland salt lake in China, is two hours west.

What to see

• The Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er Si), one of the six great monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism, with butter sculptures
• Qinghai Lake — enormous, blue, and salt; best in July when the rapeseed around it flowers
• The Dongguan Mosque and the Hui quarter, with its food streets
• The Qinghai Provincial Museum, for the Tibetan and Silk Road material

What to eat

• Hand-grabbed lamb and the whole northwest repertoire
• Yogurt and milk products from the plateau; the local 'niangpi' cold noodles
• Hui food in the Dongguan quarter — excellent beef noodles and lamb

How to plan

Three days: Kumbum one day, Qinghai Lake one day, the city one.

Best time

June–September; Qinghai Lake is best in July

Practical tips

• Altitude 2,260m — take the first day gently, especially if you are flying in from sea level