湘西土家族苗族自治州

Why this place

Xiangxi is the Tujia and Miao autonomous prefecture of western Hunan, and it contains Fenghuang (Phoenix) ancient town: stilted wooden houses along a green river, arched bridges and a walled old town, laid out exactly as the eighteenth century left it. It is the reason most people come to western Hunan.

What to see

• Fenghuang's riverside stilt houses (diaojiaolou) and the old town's lanes
• The Miao villages of Dehang and the surrounding valleys
• The Southern Great Wall (Nanfang Changcheng) — a Ming-era wall built to keep the Miao in
• The Miao singing and drum-dance performances, which are worth seeing

What to eat

• Xiangxi Miao and Tujia food: cured pork, sour fish, blood tofu and the local glutinous rice
• Fenghuang is known for its ginger-sugar and its 'sour soup' river fish

How to plan

Two nights in Fenghuang plus a day in a Miao village.

Best time

April–June and September–November; Fenghuang is crowded in summer and on holidays

Practical tips

• Fenghuang is very popular — stay inside the old town for the early morning, when it is quiet and the river steams