石家庄市

Why this place

Shijiazhuang was a village of a few hundred people until two railway lines crossed here in 1907 — then it became the capital of Hebei. It is a modern, functional city rather than a scenic one, but it is the gateway to the surrounding mountains and to a set of very old temples.

What to see

• Zhengding, 15km north — the old county town with four ancient pagodas, including the towering Lingxiao Tower
• Hebei Museum, which holds the Han-dynasty jade burial suits and the Zhao state bronzes
• Cangyan Mountain, where the Suspended Temple clings to a cliff face

What to eat

• Hebei-style donkey-meat burger (lürou huoshao) — the regional snack
• Hand-pulled noodles and lamb in the Hui neighbourhoods

Best time

April–May and September–October