兰州市

Why this place

Lanzhou sits in a narrow valley where the Yellow River runs right through the city, and it is the geographic centre of China. It is famous across the country for beef noodles, and it is the practical gateway to the Hexi Corridor and to Tibet.

What to see

• The Yellow River waterfront, with the Zhongshan Bridge — the first iron bridge over the river — and the waterwheels
• The Gansu Provincial Museum, with the Flying Horse of Gansu, one of the great bronze figures of China
• The White Pagoda Mountain, with a view over the river valley
• Bingling Temple and the Yellow River stone forest, further out in the province

What to eat

• Lanzhou beef noodles (niurou mian) — clear broth, hand-pulled, with chilli oil and beef; eaten at breakfast
• Lamb skewers and the whole northwest repertoire; the local 'hui' Muslim cooking is excellent
• Sweet fermented-rice and the local 'huiguo' pastries

How to plan

One day for the city and the museum, then west along the Hexi Corridor or south toward Xiahe and Tibet.

Best time

May–October

Practical tips

• Lanzhou is the rail hub for the Silk Road — most westward journeys start here