巴音郭楞蒙古自治州

Why this place

Bayingolin is the largest prefecture-level division in China — bigger than many countries — covering the Taklamakan's eastern edge and the Tarim basin. It holds Lop Nur, the dried-up salt lake where the nuclear tests were carried out, and the Tarim poplar forests that hold back the desert.

What to see

• The Tarim poplar forest along the Tarim River — golden in late October
• Lop Nur, the dried salt lake and the archaeological country of the Loulan kingdom
• Korla and the Iron Gate pass on the Silk Road's northern route
• The Bayanbulak grassland — the 'swan lake' high meadow, with birds and yurts

What to eat

• Korla pear — the most famous fruit in Xinjiang
• Uyghur lamb, naan and the local 'big-plate' dishes

Best time

September–October for the poplars; June–August for Bayanbulak

Practical tips

• Lop Nur is a restricted area — do not attempt it without proper permission and a support team